Top 11 Tips for Machine-Sewing Leather
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Using a sewing machine can greatly speed up the leather crafting process and produce very consistent results. But just like sewing by hand, machine-sewing leather requires careful attention to detail. To help you avoid improper materials and techniques that could ruin your projects, we asked our resident leather expert, Corbin, for his advice.
In this blog, you’ll learn Corbin’s best practices for getting the best results when machine-sewing leather. Whether you want to make the jump from hand sewing to machine sewing or you’ve been using a machine for a while, you can use these recommendations to fine-tune your workflow and achieve flawless results.
Corbin’s Top #11 Machine-Sewing Tricks
#1: Use a Leather Needle
When it comes to sewing leather, not all needles are created equal. A standard sewing needle creates a stitch by pushing fabric fibers out of the way. The fibers then close on the completed stitch. Leather fibers don’t work this way, and trying to sew leather without a specialty needle may cause tears or uneven stitches.
Leather needs to be cut to create stitch holes. That’s why leather-specific needles have sharp cutting tips. Read our blog “What Are the Best Sewing Machine Needles for Leather?” to learn more about the importance of leather needles and how to choose the best option for your DIY leather projects.
#2: Use a Presser Foot Designed for Leather
It’s important to consider the texture of the sewing machine’s foot and feed dog when sewing leather. A sawtooth foot, which comes standard on many heavy duty and industrial sewing machines, has large, aggressive teeth. The teeth are great for gripping fabric, but they can damage delicate materials such as leather.
Instead, use a knurled foot set (which has a pattern of rounded ridges) or a smooth foot set (which has no texture at all) to machine sew leather. Both are great options for a variety of leather types. To learn more and shop the presser feet Corbin recommends for various leathers, check out our blog “Matching Leather With the Right Sewing Machine Foot.”
#3: Adjust Presser Foot Pressure
Proper presser foot pressure is crucial when sewing leather. Too much pressure can leave imprints on the surface — even when using a gentle foot designed for leather. On the other hand, too little pressure can result in uneven stitching.
Adjust the presser foot pressure based on the leather assembly’s thickness. The foot should hold the material firmly without marking it. Be sure to test your pressure setting before you start your project and adjust it as needed.
#4: Use Strong Sewing Thread
Just like sewing needles, not all threads are suitable for leather. You want to use a thread that is strong and abrasion-resistant enough to hold layers of this tough material together. Corbin recommends polyester or nylon thread. He normally uses a Tex 90 thread with a size #18 needle.
Sailrite® carries a specialty nylon thread, Nylon 66, that is a good choice for sewing leather. This thread has a special coating that standard bonded nylon thread doesn’t. The coating increases its break resistance, abrasion resistance and heat tolerance while reducing friction and fraying.
#5: Adjust Your Stitch Length
In general, the fewer stitch holes you can create for a seam in leather, the stronger the seam will be. Longer stitches also mean the holes are farther apart, which helps avoid a “perforation line” that could tear the leather down the length of the seam. However, different stitch length ranges are appropriate for different types of leather goods.
Here are Corbin’s personal stitch length preferences:
- Decorative/fine stitching: 1.5-2.5mm with a Twist Point or Perpendicular Point needle.
- General sewing: 3-4mm with a DI leather needle.
- Heavy duty sewing: 5-6mm with a DI leather needle.
#6: Test on Scraps
Before starting your project, always test your machine settings (stitch length, thread tension, and presser foot texture and pressure) on a scrap piece of your project leather.
Testing is especially important for sewing leather. Making a mistake in a leather project can mean starting over with new materials. Taking the time to test your leather’s reaction to your machine settings gives you the opportunity to find the perfect settings — and avoid costly mistakes.
#7: Clean & Condition Your Leather
Before sewing, clean and condition your leather to ensure it remains soft and pliable throughout the sewing process. Conditioning not only makes the leather easier to work with, but it can also help prevent the leather from cracking under the presser foot due to dryness. This is especially important for veg tan leather, which is usually stiffer than chrome tan.
Sailrite carries an excellent selection of cleaning and care products from Fiebing’s. If you’re not sure which is right for your needs, check out this blog all about cleaning leather with Fiebing’s items. We also carry Otter Wax products, which are a good choice for leatherworkers who prefer natural cleaning products.
Both lines will get your leather clean and ready for sewing! Just be sure the cleaned leather is fully dry before you sew it. Otherwise, the products may make the leather damp enough that it will pick up track marks from the presser foot.
Shop Leather Cleaning Supplies
#8: Mark Your Stitch Lines
It can be helpful to have a line to follow to ensure your seam is straight. Leather shouldn’t be marked with fabric pencils or chalk. Instead, use a stitching groover, wing divider (Corbin’s personal favorite) or scratch awl to mark your stitch lines. These tools create indents that guide your stitches without damaging the leather
Properly marked stitch lines help you place your stitches right where you want them for professional accuracy. If you’re sewing close to an edge, a magnetic sewing guide can provide even more support for ultimate precision.
A stitch line is particularly useful when sewing around tight corners and curves, since a magnetic sewing guide may not be as effective with curves as it is with straight lines. And if you’re worried about the grooves marring the final look of the piece, don’t be — the stitches should cover them up.
#9: Learn to Backstitch in Leather
Backstitching secures your seam at the beginning and end. When sewing fabric, you can reverse without worrying too much where the stitch holes will fall. But with leather, it's important to backstitch carefully and only place a few stitches to avoid a perforation line.
Small stitches, big results! Neat backstitches give any project an expert polish.
It's best to place backstitches in the holes that were created when you stitched forward. This may sound impossible, but it’s not! In our blog “How to Backstitch on a Leather Sewing Machine,” Corbin teaches you three easy techniques for perfect backstitches. It takes practice to master these skills, but the professional finish they’ll give your leather goods is worth the effort.
#10: Sew Slowly
Controlling your sewing pace is essential for working with an unforgiving material like leather. Misplaced stitches, uneven seams and needle breakage can all happen if you sew too fast. Taking your time allows the machine to properly handle the leather and create neat, tear-free stitch holes. Plus, you have more time to spot possible mistakes and stop them before they happen.
A motor with a speed control setting is a must-have for machine sewing leather. Sailrite’s patented Workhorse® Servo Motor is equipped with incredible speed control while maintaining strength and torque. This brushless motor sews as slowly as 3/4 stitch per second on the Sailrite® Fabricator® and 1/2 stitch per second on the Sailrite® Leatherwork®.
#11: Invest in a Leather Sewing Machine
Leather is too taxing for most home sewing machines. You won’t get good results from a domestic machine, and you may ruin the machine in the process. Investing in a machine specifically designed for leather will get you the best results and the longest machine lifespan.
The Leatherwork and Fabricator Sewing Machines are engineered to handle leather with ease. The Leatherwork is the best leather sewing machine for beginners and hobbyists, while the Fabricator is ideal for job shops and serious DIYers. The blog “Choosing the Best Leather Sewing Machine” will tell you more about these machines’ advantages.
When you choose the Leatherwork or Fabricator, you get a machine that will not only help you create heirloom-quality leather goods, but that will become a family heirloom itself.
Shop the Leatherwork
Shop the Fabricator
Conclusion
Whether you’re a leather crafting beginner, expert or somewhere in between, we hope the leather sewing techniques in this blog will help you improve your machine sewing skills. Do you have any tricks we didn’t mention here? Share them with your fellow leatherworkers in the comments below. Happy sewing!
